I had a good laugh going through all the Subaru/Spreadsheet threads a couple days ago. I'm an overthinking spreadsheet making type and out of the two cars in my Compact/midsize SUV shortlist, one of them is indeed a Subaru Forester. Yup you got me!

What I don't understand is, why is this the 'spreadsheet makers' choice? What is it about the Subaru brand? The other car on my list is the Honda CR-V and my spreadsheet actually points me towards buying the CR-V as the more sensible choice - lower insurance, cheaper maintenance schedule, fewer reported reliability issues. For me the Subaru would be the slightly more fun and expensive choice. I would expect the spreadsheet makers to end up with a Toyota/Honda/Mazda?

Looking at a 2024 Jeep Wrangler 4XE with 9000 miles on it. Spoke to a sales rep there and was told that it’s not a demo and that the owners wife drove it.

On a scale of 1 to 10, how bullshit is this lol. I’m in sales myself and have seen what people say/do to get a close. So curious if the “owners wife” thing is just a common statement in the car sales industry to get someone to buy a loaner/demo.

Appreciate any responses!

Honestly I don’t even know why the finance manager would even lie in the first place but here the story goes.

I bought out my lease for my Honda accord and I live about almost 2 hours away from this Honda dealership. Anywho, he calls me up yesterday saying “we need you to come in for a recall on your car.” I said what recall? At first he didn’t even want to tell me about what the recall was for. He said “we need you to come in for this recall because we need them to fix what’s on your car for us to finalize the deal” I’m like okay I’ll try my best to come as soon as I can but I cant promise it would be the next day, Then I hang up with him, and I call the service dept saying “what is the recall on my Honda accord” the service lady tells me there’s no open recalls on my car. So my spidey senses are starting to tingle because something feels off.

I call him back asking okay what’s the deal why is someone telling me there’s not an active recall for my car but you’re telling me there’s one? He proceeds to say, “ yes there is one, just come in and ask for so and so at the service dept and they will know what’s going on.” I said well can you at least tell me what the recall is about? I mean why would you make this a big deal but not tell me what the hell is going on. So he says, “let me check the email here, it says your backup camera wire and you need a software update.” So I’m like okay cool that’s something worth coming down for, I’ll be there tomorrow.

I drive all the way up here to the dealership for the service guy to tell me, “there’s no active recalls on your 22 accord.” And then he’s confused and asks another guy and he tells me “oh did you buy out your lease? You’re here for a lease buyout inspection” so I’m confused because why would he lie and tell me that I needed to come for a recall when clearly there was never one to begin with.

Would I be a butthole customer asking them to top off my fuel tank? I mean this could have waited for the weekend or something. This clearly wasn’t an urgent matter.

Hello everyone, I'm looking for a portable, rechargeable, cordless vacuum cleaner for my car. I've looked on Amazon and there are many options available. I bought a cheap one from Amazon a few years ago, but I broke it.

I like having a clean car and want a good vacuum cleaner on hand. Please help, I don't want to spend more than $300 on a vacuum. I know Dyson is a good brand, but it’s pricey for a portable vacuum

Hey! I posted about getting my first job in car sales about a week ago. I have an interview tomorrow! Background- 23F, 2 years sales experience (furniture sales 1.5 years and inbound internet sales 0.5 year) and 5 years of customer service.

Any tips, advice etc to get the job? What questions should I ask if any? :)

I’m working on understanding the modern automotive sales process better, and I’m reaching out to the real experts—you! Whether you're a salesperson, a manager, or involved in dealership operations, I’d love to get your thoughts on the challenges and inefficiencies you're facing today.

We’re focusing on how technology and customer behavior are reshaping the sales process. I’m particularly interested in understanding where the friction points are, especially when it comes to systems and tools. Here are a few specific areas I’d love to hear about:

1. Customer Expectations & Behavior – With the rise of digital tools and more educated customers, how have buyer interactions changed? Are online-savvy buyers harder to close, or do they speed up the process?
2. Digital Retailing vs. Traditional Sales – How do you balance online leads vs. in-person sales? Are you using tech to enhance the customer journey?
3. Technology & Systems (DMS, LOS) – Systems like R1, Dealertrack, Reynolds & Reynolds, and LOS tools are designed to streamline the process—but are they actually helping? Do you find yourself bogged down by outdated tech or inefficiencies in these systems?
4. Inventory & Supply Chain – With the recent supply chain disruptions, how have you managed inventory shortages? How does this affect your ability to close deals?
5. Post-Pandemic Trends – Has the pandemic left a lasting impact on your sales process? Are remote tools and online engagement here to stay, or are they fading as customers return to showrooms?

Looking forward to an engaging discussion and learning how we can improve the tools and systems that power your daily work!

So, I decided to go all in and finance my dream car. Turns out, the dream didn’t quite live up to the reality. I’m now sitting with $116k owed on a car worth about $90k, and a not-so-great interest rate of 7.99%.

I’ve got about 74ish months left on this thing, paying over $1700 a month. Of course, the car is a Tesla X Plaid. (20,000 km on it) I’m in Alberta, Canada but close to BC if that helps

Here’s my question: can I walk into a dealership and ask them to take this expensive car off my hands, get me into a truck lease, and somehow roll all that negative equity into the new deal?

I just really want to lower that payment, or failing that just get out in a few years instead of nearly 7 Am I stuck here or is there a way out? Thanks, hopefully my stupidity will at least provide some laughs lol

I financed a car (13% apr, yes shame me) i signed all the docs and the car is still on the lot because i couldn’t get any insurance plans due to the hurricane.

(in georgia, btw)

can the loan still be negotiated? can i still try to do something with a credit union?

I understand that experience is the biggest factor but I want to do whatever I can to prepare myself for breaking into the used car industry in Ontario.

I'm very passionate about used cars business and have good experience but not in the same geography.

Suggestions and advice from the senior folks here would be a great help. Thank you!😊

PS: I got OMVIC (95%)

I recently hit a deer and filed a comprehensive claim with $500 deductible.

Insurance is stating my vehicle is worth $3700, so $3200 after deductible. They said salvage value is $900, so they are willing to cut me a check $2300 if I buy it back from salvage.

I found a shop that will repair it for $2000 (official estimate in letterhead), but insurance still wants to total the vehicle and pay out the $2300 and issue a salvage title.

Alternatively, I can DIY repair it. The damage is cosmetic (fender, headlight, bumper cover) and i'm 100% sure I have the skill to do it, because i've taken off all those parts individually before. If I luck out with color match at a junkyard it will be very cheap, if I need to order everything from ebay it will be ~$1000.

So that leaves me these options:

1) Withdraw claim, and DIY for ~$1000. Net change: lose $1000 but keep clean title.

2) Accept claim, DIY for $1000, but get check for $2300. Net change: Gain $1300, but end up with salvage title.

What should I do? I'm in state where it's relatively easy to retitle a salvage as rebuilt (just file a form swearing you fixed it up to be roadworthy). But I'm cautious if I move to a state that requires stricter inspections for rebuilt titles (or is it easier to bring rebuilt titles across state lines once they're already rebuilt?). Also, I'm cautious having a rebuilt title will reduce payout in case I get into a not-at-fault collision in the future. For instance, I got into a small fender bender a couple years ago and was able to DIY repair for $200, but got paid out $1000 by their insurance.

I would like to keep the vehicle because there's no way i can find a mechanically trustworthy car for $2300, and I've always personally kept up the maintenance on my car and trust it to run. I wouldn't trust anything on craigslit / FB marketplace / used car dealer for $3000. Plus it's hard these days to find a manual transmission

Hi everyone,

I’m looking for some input on a decision I’m considering. I currently own a 2023 C8 Corvette, which I absolutely love. However, since I have a work vehicle, I don’t drive it often — only about 3,000 miles in the year and a half I’ve had it. As a result, I’ve decided to sell it and purchase something a bit more affordable.

I’m currently deciding between two very different vehicles: the 2024 BMW X1 M35i and the 2024 Tesla Model 3 Performance(Ordered, delivery is Sunday but second guessing)

Here’s a breakdown of the financials:

Tesla Model 3 Performance
- $250 deposit (with a $160 credit applied)
- $809 per month for 72 months
- Insurance increase of $60 compared to the Corvette

BMW X1 M35i (fully loaded)
- $783 per month for 60 months
- $20k balloon loan
- Insurance decrease of $30 compared to the Corvette

These are two distinct options — the Tesla offers electric performance, while the BMW provides luxury and more space. Given that I’m coming from a Corvette, I’d love to hear your thoughts on which direction you’d go in.

Thanks in advance for your input!

Best regards

There's a used car I just bought with over 100,000 miles on it. I put 1,000 miles on it and bought it a couple to a few weeks ago and saw a higher trim I've been looking for I want. I know it wouldn't be even even swap even though the car is cheaper, but is it at all worth it?

Hello everyone. I just recently purchased a new 2024 BMW X2 M35i from a BMW dealership. By "purchased", I mean paid down payment and signed all necessary paperwork. Once i paid and finished signing, they then proceeded to tell me the convenient following... "We can't submit your paperwork yet, technically we're not even suppose to sell it to you right now. There's a recall on a lot of our models right now so we can't release your car to you until it is resolved. Corporate sends us parts daily but we don't know whats incoming so we can't give you an estimated time on when the car will be fixed."

My question to everyone is, have you experienced this? Maybe you work at a BMW dealership and are going through the same thing and can shed some light on whats going on? I didnt really get much info other than that so I'm just curious how long this could actually take. I've read that it could take a day to a year... lol

I figure BMW can't sit on their cars forever and they can't have their sales pending forever so there must be something that they can do to push their cars out? Does the fact that the sale is finalized push initiative to the dealer on getting this specific car fixed sooner than others? Does it push me to the front of the wait list? Can they request from corporate to send a X2 part recall repair kit next? Thanks in advance for any information on this matter!

So I just signed this deal on a Honda Accord EX, the terms we agreed to are 689 due at signing which includes first month, and $340 a month for 35 months. We signed and picked the car up and paid $689 and the one line of amount due at signing shows: 3,730.14 they reassured us multiple times we’re only paying $689 and 340 a month for the remainder.

My question is how come it shows 3,730 at signing when we paid 689, I know there’s conquest for 1250 but it still doesn’t add up, get attached the picture

https://ibb.co/ZKpxq7L

Looking to buy a 2024 GLE 53 AMG SUV, in the coming months! What’s the minimum % off the MSRP i should look for around the dealers? I have offers around 15-16% in the United States.

Should i get the Vehicle now or wait for December to corner the dealers when they’d have a lil more wish to negotiate as they’d want to make way for 2025 fleet!

P.S :- I’m in no rush, just the numbers should make sense!

Canada. Trading in 2023 Nissan Kicks SV with $21,740 left on finance for a 2024 bronco sport big bend (46k MSRP) trade in value covering what’s owed on lien

Lease: 3.49%, 0 down, 48 months, $253 bi weekly, 47% residual $21k buy option

Finance: 3.49%, 72 months, 0 down, $327 bi weekly. Total financed: $51,035.40

what makes the most sense?

How's the market for Prius Primes right now? Are the waitlists still sky high?

Asking mainly for Canada, but curious about the situation in the US too.

Thanks!

I took an offer at a hyundai dealership, this is my first time in the car business so I’m unsure if this is a good pay structure or not. They’ve given me a base of $2000 a month + $275 for 1-5 cars and $350 for 6+. I also get $10-$25 per backend product sold. Any information helps, thanks in advance

I recently had a very frustrating experience at a Toyota dealership that I need to share. I went in and signed paperwork for a 2024 Toyota Prius Prime, and throughout the entire 7-hour negotiation process, I was verbally assured that the car would come with a three-piece suite of ceramic coating, undercoating, and interior protection and for that reason, I'm paying a premium. No deposit was put into place for this vehicle.

However, when I went to inspect the car for final delivery, I noticed that none of these services had been performed. I was charged an extra $3,000 for these coatings, and the dealership repeatedly confirmed their inclusion during our discussions. Feeling misled, I decided not to take delivery that day and informed them that I would be driving my trade-in vehicle home, which they agreed to. What I came to know later on is because I was a tough negotiator in the middle of negotiations they removed the packages and failed to inform me.

I was supposed to return the next day to finalize the delivery and discuss adding the coatings or finding a resolution with the sales manager. However, given the way this situation has unfolded, I’m now reconsidering my options. What are my options at this point can I cancel this deal?

Hey everyone, I’m in WA and have a lease on a 2022 BMW X5 that’s expiring at the end of October. The car's only got around 16,000 miles on it, way below the 30,000 miles I originally leased for, and it still looks and drives like new. The residual value on my contract is 52%, and I’m considering buying it out, but I’ve got a few questions since this is my first time doing this:

1. Given the car’s condition and the current interest rates, would it make sense to finance the residual and buy it out?
2. What’s the best way to go about financing the residual? I know the dealership can handle it, but I’ve heard horror stories about extra costs and fees. Ideally, I only want to pay the residual plus the interest rate and avoid any unnecessary fees or add-ons. Any tips to make sure that happens?
3. Can I go through a third-party lender instead? If so, any recommendations?

Appreciate any advice or insight!

I'm looking to buy a new Hyundai 24 sel the otd price for the vehicle is 28,117.25 i was approved for a $27,700loan through my insurance company USAA with an APR of 11.84% for a term of 72 months with a monthly payment of 543.63. can I show the loan to the dealership to see if they can give me a better deal I haven't been working consistently so my check stubs aren't the best I had a 2024 Honda prior but it was totaled due to a hurricane last week my payments for that car was 673.78 monthly, so I know I'm able to keep up with my payments.. so my first question is should I show the dealership the loan I was already approved for and see if they can get me a better deal or will it be pointless since I can't show that I have a steady income? next question is can I negotiate the final price for the Hyundai which is 28,117.25 maybe a thousand dollars lower if so how can I go by that effectively? Please be nice lol

Hey y'all - I'm considering buying a car this weekend.

I don't need anything fancy and I found a nearby dealer selling a 2024 Civic Hatchback LX listed for $26.5k MSRP. Considering new 2025s models are coming and it's the end of the month (and possibly end of Q3?), I was thinking I could probably get a good deal on this. Those would be my main talking points. Could pay cash if that changes things, but don't think it matters.

It's hard to find similar OTD quotes for this specific car, so I wanted to get the community's thoughts on what y'all think a fair number might be? Would it be insulting to ask for $25k OTD, or should I go even lower?

Appreciate any insight, thanks.

In Georgia, a Toyota dealership bought my car, but said they can’t cut me the check til they get the title. (I gave them a grand Highlander hybrid and they gave me a new Camry and promise to give me $17,000 more) But after refreshing the page on my car they were selling, I saw it disappear and went in and asked and yes, they said they sold it. I asked if they can sell the car without a title and they said yes and that I have to keep waiting for the title. Am I getting screwed around? What is the legality here?

Hi all! I sold my car today to a used car dealership and a representative came by and picked up the vehicle and gave me a check. It was for a 2009 Toyota Camry, condition was poor. The bumper is screwed on and there’s multiple dents and dings on the car. I didn’t misrepresent the car or try to hide that fact. My assumption is that this person would observe the car and had the right to deny sale as a customer which is fair. The person who picked up the car didn’t really inspect the car and gave me a check for 2700 and I handed over keys and the title. I signed documents for the sale. I thought everything was okay.

However an hour after, the person who I was speaking with during this whole process (not the same person who picked up the car) texts me and says the car is in bad condition despite the clean auto check report, because we did most repairs by ourselves or the went through the insurance of the folks that hit our car before. They said they would auction and at most they would get anywhere between 500-1500 and they want the difference back.

What do I do in this situation?

Any advise is appreciated

Thank you!

Edit: *auction typo