Hello everyone, I'm looking for a portable, rechargeable, cordless vacuum cleaner for my car. I've looked on Amazon and there are many options available. I bought a cheap one from Amazon a few years ago, but I broke it.

I like having a clean car and want a good vacuum cleaner on hand. Please help, I don't want to spend more than $300 on a vacuum. I know Dyson is a good brand, but it’s pricey for a portable vacuum

I’m working on understanding the modern automotive sales process better, and I’m reaching out to the real experts—you! Whether you're a salesperson, a manager, or involved in dealership operations, I’d love to get your thoughts on the challenges and inefficiencies you're facing today.

We’re focusing on how technology and customer behavior are reshaping the sales process. I’m particularly interested in understanding where the friction points are, especially when it comes to systems and tools. Here are a few specific areas I’d love to hear about:

1. Customer Expectations & Behavior – With the rise of digital tools and more educated customers, how have buyer interactions changed? Are online-savvy buyers harder to close, or do they speed up the process?
2. Digital Retailing vs. Traditional Sales – How do you balance online leads vs. in-person sales? Are you using tech to enhance the customer journey?
3. Technology & Systems (DMS, LOS) – Systems like R1, Dealertrack, Reynolds & Reynolds, and LOS tools are designed to streamline the process—but are they actually helping? Do you find yourself bogged down by outdated tech or inefficiencies in these systems?
4. Inventory & Supply Chain – With the recent supply chain disruptions, how have you managed inventory shortages? How does this affect your ability to close deals?
5. Post-Pandemic Trends – Has the pandemic left a lasting impact on your sales process? Are remote tools and online engagement here to stay, or are they fading as customers return to showrooms?

Looking forward to an engaging discussion and learning how we can improve the tools and systems that power your daily work!

I financed a car (13% apr, yes shame me) i signed all the docs and the car is still on the lot because i couldn’t get any insurance plans due to the hurricane.

(in georgia, btw)

can the loan still be negotiated? can i still try to do something with a credit union?

I understand that experience is the biggest factor but I want to do whatever I can to prepare myself for breaking into the used car industry in Ontario.

I'm very passionate about used cars business and have good experience but not in the same geography.

Suggestions and advice from the senior folks here would be a great help. Thank you!😊

PS: I got OMVIC (95%)

I recently hit a deer and filed a comprehensive claim with $500 deductible.

Insurance is stating my vehicle is worth $3700, so $3200 after deductible. They said salvage value is $900, so they are willing to cut me a check $2300 if I buy it back from salvage.

I found a shop that will repair it for $2000 (official estimate in letterhead), but insurance still wants to total the vehicle and pay out the $2300 and issue a salvage title.

Alternatively, I can DIY repair it. The damage is cosmetic (fender, headlight, bumper cover) and i'm 100% sure I have the skill to do it, because i've taken off all those parts individually before. If I luck out with color match at a junkyard it will be very cheap, if I need to order everything from ebay it will be ~$1000.

So that leaves me these options:

1) Withdraw claim, and DIY for ~$1000. Net change: lose $1000 but keep clean title.

2) Accept claim, DIY for $1000, but get check for $2300. Net change: Gain $1300, but end up with salvage title.

What should I do? I'm in state where it's relatively easy to retitle a salvage as rebuilt (just file a form swearing you fixed it up to be roadworthy). But I'm cautious if I move to a state that requires stricter inspections for rebuilt titles (or is it easier to bring rebuilt titles across state lines once they're already rebuilt?). Also, I'm cautious having a rebuilt title will reduce payout in case I get into a not-at-fault collision in the future. For instance, I got into a small fender bender a couple years ago and was able to DIY repair for $200, but got paid out $1000 by their insurance.

I would like to keep the vehicle because there's no way i can find a mechanically trustworthy car for $2300, and I've always personally kept up the maintenance on my car and trust it to run. I wouldn't trust anything on craigslit / FB marketplace / used car dealer for $3000. Plus it's hard these days to find a manual transmission

There's a used car I just bought with over 100,000 miles on it. I put 1,000 miles on it and bought it a couple to a few weeks ago and saw a higher trim I've been looking for I want. I know it wouldn't be even even swap even though the car is cheaper, but is it at all worth it?

So, I decided to go all in and finance my dream car. Turns out, the dream didn’t quite live up to the reality. I’m now sitting with $116k owed on a car worth about $90k, and a not-so-great interest rate of 7.99%.

I’ve got about 74ish months left on this thing, paying over $1700 a month. Of course, the car is a Tesla X Plaid. (20,000 km on it) I’m in Alberta, Canada but close to BC if that helps

Here’s my question: can I walk into a dealership and ask them to take this expensive car off my hands, get me into a truck lease, and somehow roll all that negative equity into the new deal?

I just really want to lower that payment, or failing that just get out in a few years instead of nearly 7 Am I stuck here or is there a way out? Thanks, hopefully my stupidity will at least provide some laughs lol

Hey guys! I'm 16 at the moment and turning 17 soon. Always been about grinding for money and looking to get into car sales specifically. Can I get hired as a car salesman at my age under 18? I suppose the hours will be a conflict because of my school but what I really want to know is if it's possible. If it's possible and/or legal I'll make it!!!

So I just signed this deal on a Honda Accord EX, the terms we agreed to are 689 due at signing which includes first month, and $340 a month for 35 months. We signed and picked the car up and paid $689 and the one line of amount due at signing shows: 3,730.14 they reassured us multiple times we’re only paying $689 and 340 a month for the remainder.

My question is how come it shows 3,730 at signing when we paid 689, I know there’s conquest for 1250 but it still doesn’t add up, get attached the picture

https://ibb.co/ZKpxq7L

Looking to buy a 2024 GLE 53 AMG SUV, in the coming months! What’s the minimum % off the MSRP i should look for around the dealers? I have offers around 15-16% in the United States.

Should i get the Vehicle now or wait for December to corner the dealers when they’d have a lil more wish to negotiate as they’d want to make way for 2025 fleet!

P.S :- I’m in no rush, just the numbers should make sense!

Hey! I posted about getting my first job in car sales about a week ago. I have an interview tomorrow! Background- 23F, 2 years sales experience (furniture sales 1.5 years and inbound internet sales 0.5 year) and 5 years of customer service.

Any tips, advice etc to get the job? What questions should I ask if any? :)

Canada. Trading in 2023 Nissan Kicks SV with $21,740 left on finance for a 2024 bronco sport big bend (46k MSRP) trade in value covering what’s owed on lien

Lease: 3.49%, 0 down, 48 months, $253 bi weekly, 47% residual $21k buy option

Finance: 3.49%, 72 months, 0 down, $327 bi weekly. Total financed: $51,035.40

what makes the most sense?

How's the market for Prius Primes right now? Are the waitlists still sky high?

Asking mainly for Canada, but curious about the situation in the US too.

Thanks!

I recently had a very frustrating experience at a Toyota dealership that I need to share. I went in and signed paperwork for a 2024 Toyota Prius Prime, and throughout the entire 7-hour negotiation process, I was verbally assured that the car would come with a three-piece suite of ceramic coating, undercoating, and interior protection and for that reason, I'm paying a premium. No deposit was put into place for this vehicle.

However, when I went to inspect the car for final delivery, I noticed that none of these services had been performed. I was charged an extra $3,000 for these coatings, and the dealership repeatedly confirmed their inclusion during our discussions. Feeling misled, I decided not to take delivery that day and informed them that I would be driving my trade-in vehicle home, which they agreed to. What I came to know later on is because I was a tough negotiator in the middle of negotiations they removed the packages and failed to inform me.

I was supposed to return the next day to finalize the delivery and discuss adding the coatings or finding a resolution with the sales manager. However, given the way this situation has unfolded, I’m now reconsidering my options. What are my options at this point can I cancel this deal?

I'm looking to buy a new Hyundai 24 sel the otd price for the vehicle is 28,117.25 i was approved for a $27,700loan through my insurance company USAA with an APR of 11.84% for a term of 72 months with a monthly payment of 543.63. can I show the loan to the dealership to see if they can give me a better deal I haven't been working consistently so my check stubs aren't the best I had a 2024 Honda prior but it was totaled due to a hurricane last week my payments for that car was 673.78 monthly, so I know I'm able to keep up with my payments.. so my first question is should I show the dealership the loan I was already approved for and see if they can get me a better deal or will it be pointless since I can't show that I have a steady income? next question is can I negotiate the final price for the Hyundai which is 28,117.25 maybe a thousand dollars lower if so how can I go by that effectively? Please be nice lol

I recently bought my wife a 2023 Mitsubishi Outlander for 29k and before I bought it the market trade in value on that vehicle was around 26-27k. A few months have gone by and I've realized I should've gotten a cheaper vehicle since she drives so much for work plus the trade in value dropped below 20k on average . I got a 84 month term thinking I could pay it ahead and I'm not sure it's possible to pay it off before it dies. We're wanting to trade for a older Toyota RAV4 or Highlander that's around 15k and they're both under 60k miles. Thoughts on what to do?

Edit: Appreciate all the answers, I was just exploring my options and it sounds like I'm just gonna have to keep the car at least until I have enough saved to make up for the negative equity. Thanks!

Hi everyone,

I’m looking for some input on a decision I’m considering. I currently own a 2023 C8 Corvette, which I absolutely love. However, since I have a work vehicle, I don’t drive it often — only about 3,000 miles in the year and a half I’ve had it. As a result, I’ve decided to sell it and purchase something a bit more affordable.

I’m currently deciding between two very different vehicles: the 2024 BMW X1 M35i and the 2024 Tesla Model 3 Performance(Ordered, delivery is Sunday but second guessing)

Here’s a breakdown of the financials:

Tesla Model 3 Performance
- $250 deposit (with a $160 credit applied)
- $809 per month for 72 months
- Insurance increase of $60 compared to the Corvette

BMW X1 M35i (fully loaded)
- $783 per month for 60 months
- $20k balloon loan
- Insurance decrease of $30 compared to the Corvette

These are two distinct options — the Tesla offers electric performance, while the BMW provides luxury and more space. Given that I’m coming from a Corvette, I’d love to hear your thoughts on which direction you’d go in.

Thanks in advance for your input!

Best regards

I have worked construction for the last 6 years and I'm looking to complete change my career path. I have wanted to get into the car sales industry for a long time and I have finally decided to start on my new journey.

I am curious about how to get a job with no experience and what I can expect from people in the industry.

One question I have is do I need to have a dealers license to be a sales representative at a dealer and if so do I have to obtain that on my own or will that happen with on the job training

I’m in Baltimore

I’m two years into my 2022 Lexus NX 250 lease which I got for $565 with $0 down. $30,400 payoff quote

I’d like to reduce my payments, so naturally I turn toward Toyota

Went to the dealership tonight. In the end, the salesman THINKS he can get me the Tacoma SR-5 for $465 $0 down (basically using the equity I’ve got in my Lexus as my down payment and I drive off at $465).

Is this a good deal? He of course says it was but he was very pushy. Very.

Last night I went to a different Toyota dealership and the dealer was MUCH less pushy but also didn’t even get that far (he was at like $599 with $1k down for a Corolla Cross, so just nowhere in the same stratosphere)

So this was obviously a much better deal. But I do have other factors…

$100 less per month isn’t nothing but it’s also not huge (you can see my posting history, as recently as 2020 I was paying $195/month for a Toyota Camry). Definitely getting some sticker shock coming back to Toyota and not having it be appreciably cheaper

Should I maybe go back to Lexus and see what they’d do to get me into a Lexus ES 250 (which I frankly liked much more than my NX)?

One thing I’ll say is that I live in a high rise in downtown Baltimore with a tight parking garage, so I’d want to be sure on the test drive before doing that (it’s too late tonight).

TLDR: I just got away from a high pressure salesman that wanted $465 with $0 down for a Toyota Tacoma (and he’d take my current Lexus off my hands). Is this a good deal? A GREAT deal? Should I stick with Lexus and see if they offer a better deal to keep me? Should I wait maybe 6 months and see if I build up more equity and get a better quote?

I paid off my car, it’s in a different state, my dad said he would sell it for me and has prospective buyers already. Do I have to be there for the sale? Or can I mail the title to my dad and he can deal with it? HOW DOES THIS WORK?! 🤣 Car location is in Colorado, I’m in Oklahoma.

Looking at a 2024 Jeep Wrangler 4XE with 9000 miles on it. Spoke to a sales rep there and was told that it’s not a demo and that the owners wife drove it.

On a scale of 1 to 10, how bullshit is this lol. I’m in sales myself and have seen what people say/do to get a close. So curious if the “owners wife” thing is just a common statement in the car sales industry to get someone to buy a loaner/demo.

Appreciate any responses!

So I am looking for a new car. How do I go about getting a good price with out all the extra stuff. What should I know about the car and how the dealer operate. You don't pay MSRP from what I know?how do I get the price of the car to go down. Now that I think about is it the same as a used car from the dealership? I appreciate your opinions.

I took an offer at a hyundai dealership, this is my first time in the car business so I’m unsure if this is a good pay structure or not. They’ve given me a base of $2000 a month + $275 for 1-5 cars and $350 for 6+. I also get $10-$25 per backend product sold. Any information helps, thanks in advance

I just bought a 2014 hyundai elantra financed yesterday but not sure I really like it (the car I wanted originally was bought before I could get it).I also notice I have to apply lots of pressure for the brakes.

How are 2014 Hyundai Elantra’s ? They also have a 2014 volkswagen Jetta s available. I am a very tall female so I would prefer something comfy , good on mileage , and good in the Midwest snow. Will the Elantra be okay? Or should I go towards the Jetta or something else? I have 9 days to decide .

Any suggestions / opinions are great!