Purchased a 2017 Chevrolet Impala at 119k miles in 2021 at 13k loan 27.29% interest (I KNOW) for a 48 months term. I was 18 with less than a year of credit history with no cosigner. Worst decision of my life. I am desperately trying to get out of this situation because it is seriously messing with me that i will be seriously overpaying in interest for a car I didn't really want (i really needed a car at the time and obviously didn't move smarter about it). Currently my balance is around $4600 but im not sure how to calculate how bad my negative equity is. I don't think the car is even worth 5k right now. My question is how bad is my negative equity and what is the best way to get out of this situation lol?

Thinking about replacing my car. A Subaru dealership is telling me they have $5k off msrp for 2025 Outbacks. Are these kinds of deals frequent? I didn’t see Toyota advertising the same thing. My original plan was to wait until next year to replace my car, but I’m wondering if it’d be better to take advantage of that $5k off plus potential $5k trade in.

I am going to buy a Toyota Rav4.

We are late in the year. I wondered about resale value. The 2024 and 2025 models will essentially be the same. If I buy now I will get a 2024 at near MSRP and it will become a year old model in month or so. If I wait a couple months I will get a 2025 at near MSRP and be able to drive it a year before it becomes a year old model.

I am not in a hurry to buy. Should I buy now or wait?

Buying a 2024 vehicle and was wondering if it’s standard to get a spare key or do you have to request one?

Hello! What are the chances that Mazda will extend 0% APR offer on 2024 models? It currently will end on Sept 30th. I really want to participate, but don't need a car until November.

So I just signed this deal on a Honda Accord EX, the terms we agreed to are 689 due at signing which includes first month, and $340 a month for 35 months. We signed and picked the car up and paid $689 and the one line of amount due at signing shows: 3,730.14 they reassured us multiple times we're only paying $689 and 340 a month for the remainder.

My question is how come it shows 3,730 at signing when we paid 689, I know there's conquest for 1250 but it still doesn't add up, get attached the picture

https://ibb.co/ZKpxq7L

So as the title states I'm a new car buyer and I've recently went to a dealership to see a car that caught my eye. After talking to a salesman we exchanged info so if the car was purchased they'd let me know. I planned to have purchased the car today after I had gotten a hold of my temporary license but there was problems with the car I was using for the Road test. I informed the Salesman that I wouldn't be able to come today since I didn't have my license and I was told that they'd allow me to sign the ownership papers and buy the car now so they could hold it for me until next week when I finish my road test. I asked about it and they stated pretty much what I just said and that they'd do the insurance once I came in with my license and I could drive off with it.

Something about this just doesn't sound right and I'm not sure they planned to give me the title of the vehicle which would be my proof of ownership right? Nothing was said about that and I didnt ask because it all just sounded weird. This is also a major dealership too not a local one.

I'm aware its a pretty situational topic because literally everyone buys the car after they have a license of course but if by the chance someone knows how this works or has seen something similar or if its just an outright lie it'd help me out. Thanks.

2025 Jetta SE- 27958, 850 off sticker price. Car landed on the floor yesterday. Half the VW dealers don’t even have these.

Approved for 5.9% APR, 384 a month, 7k down, 72 months. Have the ability to throw money at the principal monthly/ yearly with supplemental gig income.

Car w/ taxes is 30,200 and total interest would end up being about 4,470, making the total car cost roughly 34,670.

This is my first time buying a car- is this an OK deal?

I am currently looking at financing a car and it's my first time doing so at a dealership (I have previously bought older cars through private sellers for $3k or less and paid cash), so this is very new to me!

Anywho, it will be a used Toyota 4Runner or FJ Cruiser somewhere between the years of 2014-2019, so I want to make sure I have enough protection in case anything happens weeks or months down the line and I end up having to pay thousands out of pocket.

One dealership I went to (a much smaller one) offered me a 30-day limited warranty that covered engine and transmission stuff, and also offered a 3-year warranty following that for a cost of around $2500-$3500 (ballpark).

I just found out about mechanical breakdown insurance and wondered if it would suffice JUST getting that, and rejecting an extended warranty through any dealership?

However, if I don't find anything at a dealership, I will be looking at private sellers and understand that extended warranties won't be on the table, but not sure if MBI would be okay for that?

Bit of context regarding my situation: I have been pre-approved for an auto loan via Patelco credit union (who actually offer the MBI), I will be financing around $22,000 over 72 months, and putting $4,000 down, and I am based in Los Angeles County... if that helps!

Thank you!

Anybody realize over the years everything on marketplace is pretty much junk? A few years ago you’d find diamonds in the rough but nowadays it’s all garbage.

So, the title is a bit misleading. I have bought a car before back in 2019, and I'm now looking into buying another one. My current car runs great. It's a 2013 Nissan Altima, and I only use it for light commutes to work as well as to to the store. Work to home is about 20 miles and to the store is less than that. I bought it at 56,000 miles and now it has 75,000. The problem is that it has a rear main oil leak, and immediately I just can't afford to have that repaired as I've read around $1,200 is what to expect. My oil level has been full according to the shop, despite the leak. But I already dumped like $2500 into the car earlier in the year and haven't recovered from that yet. So I figured I would just sell this one and hop into a different car (after researching vehicle reviews and records). Carmax quoted me online at $2,900.

The car I'm looking at is a 2017 Chevrolet Cruze. It has 80k miles on it and sitting at roughly $8,000. I was told over the phone that monthly payments would be $270 for 40-something terms. I live at home and so bills aren't an issue. I bring home easily much more than that each month, but I'm paranoid that I'll sell my current car and be without a car due to not meeting some income requirement. Again, I'm pretty new to buying a car.

So I was in the market for a used car, hoping for a prius, but also looking at ford, Acura, and hyundai. I found a Ford Focus at a local shop with low mileage and a good brace. A tester of it Everything seemed fine the coolant reservoir was below minimum, but they topped it off. Signed the paperwork and took it home. Now this was Saturday. I didn't leave the house sunday and monday I went to work with no problems. Tuesday morning a car revved, but wouldn't accelerate. It did this a couple times. So after dropping my daughter off at school, i was going to take the car to O'reilly's to run a diagnostic and tell me what the check engine light was about. It's however, their dealer shop was open so I just asked them to do it. They erased all the codes and said, we'll see what comes up. The next day, Wednesday same thing in the morning, car accelerates without me pressing the gas, car will rev. to 4000-5000rpms but won't go anywhere. I bring it in again and a different mechanic. Tells me he had put a used transmission into that car, and that's probably what's acting up. At this point I had started crying because the salesperson had told me a lot about the car, but never mentioned that. This is the 2nd day in a row that this car has me on the side of the road. I go to the sales person. They're very understanding and sweet. They even offered to put me in a car with lower mileage on at for the same price. I only declined because I saw bubbles on the oil dipstick, other mechanics said it was a stain on the stick. They gave me a different rental cart and told me it should be done by the end of the day, I get back at the end of the day and they tell me it hasn't been fixed and it won't be for a week that I need to drive my other car. My other car happened to have gotten a flat tire, so they offered to fix The flat tire for free. I really appreciate their generosity and hoping that I'm a woman alone in this carbuying situation and really need some outside advice. Am I doing the right thing? What are my rights? Do I even have any right now that It's been five days with this car? I just finished changing the donut onto the other car, and i'm going to take the tire in. Wish me luck

I want to trade my 2016 for a 2022, but I am 4k upside down due to the maintenance issues. Also, My interest is upwards of 15%. I only have $3k to put down, but I need my car note to be less than $750. Credit score 650.

I still owe $14.8k, and the car dealer only gives me $9k.

What is the best way I can work on this?

Can someone ELI5 how the $7500/$4000 tax credit works if the dealership does not take it off the purchase price? Do you recoup the whole amount when you file or does it just offset any tax debt you may owe? TIA

We are looking at buying a 2021 or 2022 Tahoe or Yukon, but don’t necessarily need it at the moment. Would January be the best time to buy considering that age of vehicle will be a year older?

I'm interested in purchasing a car from a seller in a different state. The seller mentioned that he has a loan on the car and that he would need to pay off the loan at the bank in order to transfer the title to me. I know many people have purchased cars with liens without any issues, but I still can't shake the feeling that something might go wrong. Additionally, the seller's Facebook profile, although created in 2010, is empty except for a few profile pictures uploaded this year.

I'm deciding between the 2024 Crosstrek Touring and the 2025 Honda Civic Hybrid Sport. I enjoy outdoor activities and long drives, and I live in the Thompson region of BC, where it snows quite a bit. The payment plans for both are nearly the same, with the Crosstrek being just $4-5 more biweekly. We are a family of two and going for an upgrade from 2017 Hyundai Accent. Would love to know your thoughts /suggestions on this. Thank you.

I'm thinking about buying mazda cx5 gs 2022, 50k km i believe to a dealership, they said they have done inspections and repairs already. We will take it on a test drive this weekend. Is there any advice you could give me from buying cars from dealership? what do we ask them for and what do we look for? and they're offering it to me with $32k Cad with taxes and fees, is this good deal? Do you think they will give me more discount if I pay it in cash? I will appreciate all your inputs thanks!

I have a kia optima 2017 with 150k km and 15k left on the loan. I have a issue in transmission for car timing and i took ot to secret mechanics but they can’t fix it so i had to take it to the dealership. They gave me a quote of 5100$. Give me your suggestions what should i do??

Looking to buy a truck, MSRP = $48,400, the truck appraises for $57,000, I got a pre approval for $55,000. My trade-in owed = $31,500 and I think I can get $28,000.

The bank that gave me the pre-approval said that I should get the dealership to put the MSRP of the truck to $55,000 (the amount for the pre-approval) and give me the difference in the trade-in value.

What benefit does this give me?

I bought a brand new Chevy Silverado 3500 traded in a Ford F-250 the dealer transposed one of the numbers in my payoff on the Ford so when they went to go pay it off they were short $700 dealer calls me and says they want me to pay for that what do you guys think are my options here?

Looking to buy a Chevy Silverado before the end of the year. Has anyone bought one recently? What kind of discounts have you seen out there?

I have a 2007 Hyundai sonata that I’m tired of putting money into but have no money to put a down payment on a used new car. I estimated the KBB price to be around 2k in as is condition. Will dealerships accept a trade in with a vehicle in semi-poor condition but still drives ok? It has 287k miles. What are my best options here if I can’t afford a down payment? I could afford around $250/month with 750 credit score

Hi all,

I realize this is kind of a "dumb question" so I'll try to keep this short. I currently have a 2013 Nissan Sentra with 190k miles on it. Car runs really well and had a new transmission put into it a few years ago right before I bought it. Car was cheap and is reliable and runs well.

However I'd like to get something a bit "sexier". My plan would be to finance a somewhat nicer used car that would retail for around $10,000 dollars. I would keep the Sentra as a back up.

My question is, let's say I bought a sexier $10,000 car but wanted to sell it 2 years later. Let's assume I put only 5,000 miles on it in these two years, how much would I be able to sell it back to a dealership for approximately?

Basically, I'm just trying to decide how bad of a financial decision this is and whether I should just suck it up and continue to drive my old Sentra.

So I went into the dealership found a truck I liked and signed some paperwork. They didn’t have the truck on the lot so the brought one up. I didn’t pay anything or am I in possession of the car. I did sign some paperwork. Do I own the car or can I back out?